Day
56, Toul – Epernay, 18kms
We had an early start today. We were up at 5am to catch a 7.19 train from
Toul to Epernay. We had decided that we
were unsure of the terrain between these two towns and we now have an
appointment with our apartment in Paris next Wednesday, so the need to get some
quick kilometres under our belts was there.
We made the station in plenty of time, but
we are always keen to ensure we have the platforms and strategies with the
bikes sorted. As we were at the station
early it was still quite chilly and we were pleased when the sun peeked it’s
head onto the platform.
Access to the train platforms varies. Sometimes there are lifts for the bikes;
sometimes we have had to carry them, fully loaded up flights of stairs; other
places have a travelator system where the bike goes on the travelator and you
support it while you walk up the stairs.
Today we were able to walk across the train
tracks to get to the right platform. BUT
– you have to wait for the stationmaster to put on his orange jacket, radio
ahead and advise those in the know that we will be walking across the
lines. He then stands in the middle of
the tracks while we all walk across like a family of ducks!
Luckily we boarded a newer train. These ones you can wheel the bikes straight
onto without it taking three of us to lift them up into the train. It is also nice when you have a friendly
conductor (even though we couldn’t understand each other) who indicates you can
take up this door space as it won’t be used for entry/exit to the train before
you get off. The six bikes take up a lot
of space fully loaded, so travelling by train requires some logistics.
On arrival in Epernay we visited a
champagne cave (cellar). It was a bit
commercial and they certainly didn’t miss you with the price of a small glass
of champagne.
We organised a champagne vineyard tour from
Epernay, which started at 2.30 pm in Ay, a small village about 5kms from
Epernay. We rode the bikes out there in
stinking heat.
It was an “Eco” tour organised through a
small family vineyard in an electric car. The young guy who took the tour had
reasonable English and some of the rest of the family was also involved. Four generations of the family had been
involved with the grape production, with two different generations of the
family losing everything during the two world wars due to bombings and
internment.
The lady who is the current owner started
everything again in 1997 with her husband.
The business in now called a mix of their two surnames –
Richard–Fliniaux.
A great time was had by all, despite the
oppressive heat. A good day, with lots
of different champagne tastings.
Day
57, Epernay – Chateaux Thierry, 55 kms
The weather forecast was for another very
hot day, so we cycled off early again.
As we caught the train yesterday, we now
don’t have big days of riding before we get to Paris on Wednesday. Our ride was fairly “undulating” today. A few long slow hills which some of us walked
(no names mentioned), but generally an interesting ride through the champagne
area.
Our plan was to ride to Chateaux Thierry
and arrive early to beat the heat. We
did this, but our concerns regarding the availability of campsites, was
founded. There is no campsite in the
town, but there is a “camper car” site.
This has an automatically operated system designed for camper cars to
have access to showers and toilets and park in an allocated spot.
It is sited right next to the river, but we
aren’t getting any breeze to cool us down yet. We managed to trick the
automatic gate into believing 6 bikes and 3 tents = one camper car! It will be interesting to see if anyone says
anything.
The adjacent McDonalds is airconditioned,
so we have made use of their services! The company we have in McDonalds is
about the same as their food!!!!!
Julie and I stayed in Chateau Thierry some years ago having driven from London to Rome and back to Paris. We loved it, and of course the extensive WW1 history there. We stayed at the a hotel de la Post, also near the river (Marne?) a famous battle area for the British forces. Enjoy the final few days. No more mountains to Paris. Watch for Belleau Wood, another great battle field with magnificent US cemetery attached. Kind regards K and J
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